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Thread: airlock

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013


    My airlock only bubbled for one day. checked bucket and lid is sealed. What does this mean. Did my beer stop fermenting?

  2. #2

    First, relax. It's probably fine, but we'll need more info in order to help out.

    What temperature is the beer? Has the temperature been stable?
    How long has it been in the fermenter? What was the OG of the wort?
    What style is the beer? What strain is the yeast?
    How much did you pitch? How well did you aerate?
    How many batches have you brewed before this one? (It's your first post, just trying to figure things out here).

    Give a man a beer and he'll waste an hour. Teach him to brew and he'll waste a lifetime. - Nuco Gordo

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    This is my first brew. I missed the step with the hygrometer. The yeast packet said ale.The style is classic american amber by brewers best.I pitched yeast when I had the wort cooled to around 70 F. I stirred the final mixture if that counts as aerating. Temperature has been stable as i have kept the bucket covered on the floor in a dark space in our kitchen.

  4. #4
    I would carefully peek into the fermenter to see if there is any activity. The yeast are probably working on it, but even what seems like a tight fitting lid lets co2 out causing low airlock activity.

    A careful peek inside will show one of three things.

    1) a thick layer of foam (with greenish brown gunk on top- all this foam is called "Krausen") if the yeast are still working. This is goodness and probably the best thing as the yeast are working normally and thereby producing the best flavor profile.

    2) If there is relatively foam free/clear top with what looks like a greenish brown ring on the water line of the bucket like "ring around the bathtub" called a "Krausen Ring", then the yeast have finished. This is ok, but it seems fast so you may have some harshness due to fusel alcohol production (most likely it went fast due to high fermentation temps). The beer needs time to condition and improve the flavor of the beer. Tt should turn out ok.

    3) If the water line is clear of gunk and you have a clear top on the wort, then the yeast haven't done anything yet. This is the worst of the 3 states but not unsalvageable.
    Since you said you only did a quick stir to aerate, you can sanitize a whisk and add oxygen by whipping up air into the wort. This will help aid yeast growth and hopefully the yeast will respond and begin to multiply. You might try to get ahold of another newer packet of yeast (I'd go with US-O5 from SafAle). Boil some plain water then cool it down to 90F. Add the yeast to that and let it sit for 10 -15 mins to rehydrate. then pitch that rehydrated yeast mixture to help ferment this beer out.

    Next time be sure to aerate really well and to rehydrate the yeast in boiled then cooled water.

    Once you get the hang of this you'll love the results, so hang in there!

    Good luck and please ask here if you have any questions!


    Give a man a beer and he'll waste an hour. Teach him to brew and he'll waste a lifetime. - Nuco Gordo

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    ok,thx so much.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    You could still take a hydrometer reading and post what it is here. It may help us to tell even though you didn't take an opening gravity. Just make sure that what ever you use to collect your sample is sterile.
    Olgethorpe is screening me!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    If you used the correct amount of water and got all the extract out of the cans your OG should match what the kit states it should be. It's that simple for extract beers. Something else to consider is that most kits overestimate the FG, so if it says you should get to 1.012 and it stops at 1.016 the beer is probably done. Bottle and enjoy it. Welcome to this great beer community and to the addiction.
    It's always time for a beer

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