In Defense of American Wheat Beer

Wheat snuck in through the back door of the New England IPA craze and is once again proving its worth.
By MIKE POMRANZ
A couple years ago, I had the pleasure of sitting down with a group of beer and food writers to sample our way through a large selection of wheat beers. Something quickly became apparent: I was the only one who liked the style. Granted, there’s plenty to dislike. Wheat beers often derive a lot of their character from yeast, an element that many drinkers prefer to be hidden, and on the extreme end of the yeasty spectrum, wheat beers can taste like liquid bananas or bubblegum. Take those yeast notes out, however, and wheat beers, which are typically low in hops, can be downright boring. On top of that, craft beer can be an image battle, and wheat beers simply aren’t cool – either to drink or to brew. Except maybe they are again. The evidence might surprise you.

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